-"Since there are so many portenos with light skin like me, can you tell the difference?"
-"Oh yes, very easily. Because you have 'gringa' stamped on your forehead."
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Today I botched my examen oral. First of all, I was late (I blame Vale for that since the two of us hung out all morning muy tranquilada). I didn't think it would matter-- FLACSO told us to accustom ourselves to el tiempo latinoamericano, but apparently that means be patient for others, on time yourself. Anyways, my exam proctor was not amused. I was a little flustered when she didn't return my light humor with any friendly facial expression. But I had no time as we got right down to business.. which consisted of her asking me some simple questios about my expectivas de las clases gramaticas de Flacso, and me looking like a stunned bunny, but a little less cute. Not because I couldn't understand or couldn't speak in Spanish, but because I honestly don't have many specifics in mind. I tried explaining that I want to improve, by whatever means they think work best. When she wrote down my "no se" in the response box next to my name, that's when I lost all trail of could-be thoughts in my brain. I ended up mumble-jumbling in some new language (a mix between Espanglish and gato) that I want to learn the vos form and that I don't want to do grammar worksheets because in the States I get As but I'm not an A student in Spanish. All she said to that was to correct my "AY" to "AH". I'm just hoping that this way I'll get a lighter studyload so I have more time to wander the city during the semester, but it may mean that I've gotta work extra hard and take more classes to catch up or that I waste a semester taking all language classes that won't transfer for credit. Anyways, after that we had a workshop on safey tips then split up into our groups for una guia caminando. The tour guide was awesome and interesting but I couldn't hold my attention to her because it was mid afternoon and sunny. We went to Puerto Madero and among other sites, saw La Casa Rosada y La Plaza de Mayo.
After the guide finished, we were told that we were "libres" to do whatever we wanted. We all kinda stood there like "uh...how do we get back?" since we initially took the subte to the last stop somwhere befor beginning the tour. It actually was really fun getting back! We first stopped at a cart and some people got food, some got beer, and one(me) got both from their leftovers. After that, We each tried to find our respective subte lineas y estacciones. Alyssa and I had a great adventure finding our way back to our neighborhood. At one point we charged off the subte at the last second, tossing "chau chau!" over our shoulders to our small friend group who had no idea what we were doing. And apparently neither did we, as we realized that WAS the one we wanted as it sped away. On the next subte, I struck up a convo about how "es siempre verano el el subte" con una viaja (a woman was fanning herself from the subte heat). But that leads me to one of my favorite things about Bs As so far-- very similar to Portland Maine it seems, but I think more pronounced-- strangers mind their own business. They have their own things to do, places to go, people to meet. but in many you can sense the curiosity in their eyes, even in the ones who dont openly stare at us gringos. And if you make the least attempt to address anyone in spanish, they light up like the sun. I love everyone I've met here, including the few strangers like my neighbor on the plane. So far no one's been direct enough to come out of nowhere and say something (not including the barachos y "chicos feos" as Vale calls the men on the street who call out), but they are very open. Another example: I took my taxi alone last night from Palermo (~42 pesos in case you were wondering) and the driver didn't say much. Not until I rolled down my window and commented typically how nice the weather was. He agreed with me, and 10 minutes later, we were in the middle of a good conversation all about my studying here. He confessed he was surprised I could understand so much! It's small talk I guess, but it feels different. They've been super patient and wicked gracious so far when I tell them I can't understand. They haven't shown any frustration. They simply repeat it slower or find a different way to describe it.
In the morning, Vale took me on her own walking tour around el barrio, showing me the stores she likes, the ones she doesnt, the 24 hr guarded ATM, etc. to orient me. Te hospitality is so striking because it's not at all nervous or silly or spastic, if that makes any sense. To me, it seems like the portrayal of hospitality is subservient and a little hyper. But it's not that way here. The people are confident and calm, and they transfer those ondas (vibes) to their guests.
... to be continued
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