This week has been testing. A week ago today at noon is when I woke up from my unintentional nap on the terrace in the sun asking why am I so tired? and then realizing, oh hey, I don't feel so good... I thought it was the heat. Now, a LONG week later, the good news is I'm much better! The bad news is that my digestive system is still a wreck, but as long as I stick to my arroz (rice) y galletitas de agua (water crackers), I now feel fine. It's been a good bonding time for me and Vale! Lots of tea time, constant emailing when she was at work, and she made soup for me!
But guess what? The past couple days I was able to leave the house and be social!
On Friday, still feeling very drained, I made it to FLACSO to meet with a tutor and then research in the library for my paper. On the way home I went into one of the tango shoe stores that Vale recommended and tried on some gorgeous pairs! They're expensive, and I'm still hunting, but I met a friend. The worker and I are now friends on facebook and planning to go tango sometime! After that I continued my walk home at a leisurely pace. Went into a bookstore and bought Martin Fierro that I have to read for my Folk y Lit class as well as another folklore book for fun. When I stopped in to buy some gatorade (apple flavor..?!), I had a nice conversation with the cashier girl who's studying tourism and thus took an interest in my thoughts on Argentina. I also bought a skirt that I'm not sure I love yet but will be good for my folk dance class. This shopping-walk home revealed again what I love most about Buenos Aires: even though it's a big European-type city, the people maintain a bit of the South American warmth. Which means that it's possible to have really good conversations with strangers.
I'm glad that I'm in Stage 3 of my Culture Shock.
A ver (let me explain): according to CIEE, there are 5 Stages of Culture Shock. At first, when they gave us this sheet, I rolled my eyes and put it directly in my scrap paper pile. (ps, no se recicla mucho aca- when I've asked why they don't recycle I've received the same response: there isn't the custom here.) I have since removed it because it is humorously accurate.
So here it goes.
Stage 1: Excitement. The "honeymoon" period... everything's new, exciting, fascinating.
I thought that stage would last forever! But then came (and hopefully left for good!)
Stage 2: Withdrawal. Frustration and Critique... This came on drastically for me and I was shocked by my thoughts. I was suddenly generalizing. Things I'd previously found comical, endearing, or fun were suddenly so dumb to me! I was sick of the old men making kissing noises. I was angry at the absence of spicy food. I was annoyed at everyone and annoyed at myself for feeling that way. And I was more than frustrated with my inability to speak. I realized what was happening a little later and was able to sort out my thoughts. I realized that my friend Annie experienced it at roughly the same time frame because at the end of a hard week we went to get a quick empanada which turned into the most hilarious conversation that lasted 2 hours in the cafe and spilled out onto the street where we stood (backpacks in front) doubled-over laughing and complaining in English. I shared my horrible moments of "I'm better than you" thoughts and she confessed hers, while we laughed about how ridiculous the timing was. Such as "You dont know anything! I'm smarter than you!" in class... when we can't even answer a simple question and we sit there with stunned faces and everyone wonders how we ever made it into college. We laughed at ourselves and we laughed at Buenos Aires in all its glory of broken sidewalks and plethora of dog poop.
Stage 3: Adjustment. "Understanding and accepting the behavior of the people, Feeling less isolated, Regaining the lost sense of humor". I certainly feel adjusted. Now that doesn't mean that the annoyances have disappeared, but I'm able to sort things into little compartments for the most part: this I like, this I don't, this I am indifferent to.
Next up: Stage 4 (Adaptation: feeling at home) and Stage 5 (Re-entry Shock).
Anyways, I was absolutely exhausted when I got home, so I napped for an hour and then headed out to Annie's birthday celebration. We went to see the musical Por Amor a Sandro at the Teatro Broadway. Sandro was a famous singer, dancer, actor.. think the Elvis of South America, and this musical was based on the life of a diehard Sandro-fanatic. It was so much fun! The dancing and the singing were amazing!
Here's a song from the musical
After that we met up with the rest and went out to dinner to an Indian place (hard to find here!) which was nice, but of course I could only eat the naan bread and rice, which was jut torture!
That night coming back was a shock.. I took a taxi and just as I was about home, I witnessed a man on his bike get hit by a car from behind. I pray he's okay but I don't know how he would be. It was pretty horrible and I was shaken up, so Vale got out of bed to make me tea and we talked about the musical. It took a very long time to get to sleep...
The next morning (yesterday) I woke up early to go to this zoo where you can go into the cages with the lions and tigers and bears (OH MY AMAZING!) and kiss them and love on these amazing creatures!!! I was so looking forward to it, and even though I decided not to go that morning, I was planning to go later. However.. I then started thinking. It's called Zoo Lujan. Maybe that rings a bell for the justice-system savvy, but for me it didn't. But looking online in exuberance at the tourists'photos, I realized that in all of them, the animals look the same- sleepy and out of it. I knew the zoo was controversial, but only because of humans being in the same cage. I then asked Vale about it and we discussed it.. I found out that the animals are extremely drugged. Maybe that's obvious to others, but I didn't realize. They are also in chain-link cages with nothing but dirt and benches. No grass, nothing to create any sort of natural-habitat atmosphere. They are constantly paraded around and played with like stuffed-animals (one image that really made me mad was of a man spinning a bear around by its feet).. which I am not okay with, no matter HOW BAD I would love love love to kiss a tiger and touch a lion paw-pad!!
So anyways, I did homework. Then Simone came over for a bit because her house is being fumigated, and then it was time to get ready for the party for Marcelo's dad's 80th birthday. It was like a wedding, the amount of preparation and the formality. Vale picked which of my dresses to wear and I wore her red tango shoes (we wear the same size!) and off we went together in taxi.
It was so much fun! Even though any social gathering where you don't know the people is bound to be a bit awkward. Luckily Clay was there and we stuck together. But it turned out to be a lot of fun and I was so glad to be included. Also very fortunate that I was well enough to make it! I wasn't able to eat all the yummy appetizers (sneaked a few) or the main course or drink any wine, but still enjoyed myself. We got there at 9 and didn't get home till 4 in the morning! Lots of dancing and lots of meeting people, since in Argentina it is custom to greet everyone and say bye to everyone individually. I was told multiple times that I could pass as an Argentine, until I spoke haha. And Vale and Marcelo decided that from this day forward, I'm no longer a gringa-- just because supposedly I "dance like a Latina" :]] Vale said I can be her Argentine daughter now, she just needs to paint over my mouth! Unfortunately, I came here to speak and not to move my hips.
Tomorrow: 2 full months since arriving in Bs As!
PS: I just realized on friday when I filled out my course registration (finally!) that I am actually in fact taking 20 credits. in addition to the volunteering. So, to all those teasing me about partying all the time (which I don't), I am indeed a student through and through. :]
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