Quick history lesson: May 25th in Argentina is Revolution Day, commemorating the week of May 18-25, 1810 that led to the colonial split from Spain and the eventual national independence on July 9, six years later.
Though Argentina is relatively young, her ties to the past are strong. As a country, the people dedicate much of their daily life to the cause of collective memory. You can see it on the streets, with all the street names based on important dates (Av. 9 de Julio, 25 de Mayo, 11 de Septiembre) or political figures (Sarmiento, Mitre), just as you can see it in school. The youth are educated and encouraged to stay in-the-know, if not politically active, as soon as possible.
The school where I work, an international Christian private school located in the suburbs of the city, represents a multitude of different opinions. Naturally it's going to commemorate the date differently than the die-hard Peronistas in the Plaza. However, the students were still required to learn about the country's history and encouraged to form their own opinions about what it all means. Our cultural celebration was performed during the week for families and city representatives. It showcased the gaucho (cowboy) culture--the historical folklore that emerged during the beginning years of the country's independence-- through costume, dance, and song.
The country gets a lot of flack for the political turmoil, instability, and corruption. Though history proves the stereotype, political action spread by "militantes" (political activists) is what gives the country its passion. It's a lot more admirable than it seems on paper. As a whole, I don't believe the people clamor just to make noise. From my perspective, it's genuine. The people care about their past and present because they see how it informs their future.
Also, I've noticed that political frustration is directed at the leaders, not the supporters of the leaders. Maybe that's because there's not a bi-party system in place, so it's not simply Democrat vs. Republican. There's much more gray area, and I sense a common seed of respect for the strong (sometimes confusing) opinions of others. I'd even chance to say that the strong left have more of a problem with the politically unaligned, inactive, and ignorant than they do with the strong right. At any given social gathering, politics will be one of the main topics of conversation. There will be arguments, many Italian gestures sprinkled with expletives. Maybe no opinions change. Maybe they even get more polarized. But here's the thing: Argentines respect your opinion as long as you have one. Political respect isn't earned by being on the same side. It's earned by caring enough to think about an issue.
This is just one of the endearing qualities of Argentina that surprises me. Socially, Argentina is much more communal than the US. In the States, we value healthy competition. That way we can cheer the underdog pulling herself up by her own bootstraps to rise above the rest. Not so in Argentina. As a whole, the country values the whole of the country. Individual success isn't the overarching goal.
The freedom to voice opposing opinions in Argentina surprises me because when I hear communal, I think "group-think." Similar mindsets. I suppose the calmness is either due to a strong value of friends and family ("we can argue, but we're still connected for life" type thing) OR a trust in the majority ("if we all have and voice our opinions, then the outcome reflects the common needs"). Whereas in the US, the politically active individual seems to think, "I know what's best for everyone." Even as I write this I'm thinking, "But really, I do! My way works!"
Okay I think I've gone por las ramas and I'm running my mouth about things I don't fully understand. Let me stick to the facts...
Saturday virginia and I went to the races for some free horse action and brass band anthems.
We also got serenaded by this group.
Then on Sunday, Vale invited me to celebrate the holiday with her. After lunch at the house, Marcelo, Vale and I headed to the Plaza de Mayo to hear President Kristina speak and celebrate the country's independence.
Argentina is beautiful and weird and unique. Hopefully from what you see you fall in love for yourself!
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