So it appears I haven't written in a while! That's because the academic side of the semester is finally underway. Aka, hours upon hours of reading in Spanish. They LOVE to read here. However, it's not at its fullest yet, which is why Jon, Clay, Lauren, and I acted fast to get out of town whil still possible. I'm currently on LAN airlines on my way to.... USHUAIA!
The southernmost city in the world. We have about maybe an hour left, and I'll probably try to sleep a bit. Thanks to Nammy for the amazing travel pillow and thanks to Mom for the awesome cover! I haven't gotten much rest this past week.. 1.5 hours tonight (left at 2:30 am), 3 hours last night, 4 hours the night before. I don't know why... I'm comfortable here-- I love my house, room, bed; I have a fan and window, nights are cool enough to use my blanket.. but I cannot keep my eyes closed. I'm subconsciously over-stressed and anxious most of the time. I think it's especially strong because I had a 3 month break without exercising my mind much, and now all the sudden it's gotta be full blast throughout the day. Going to my direct enrollment class honestly feels like I'm taking a final every time. But I have noticed an improvement in my listening abilities! On my hell day (Tuesday), I had my first really noticeable speaking breakthrough, where I stayed talking at the table with Vale and Marcelo after dessert for a few hours. Normally they talk to me and every time I want to contribute, they've gotta fill in blanks or correct my conjugations or I forget what I'm trying to say. But that night, I was able to semi-rapidly word exactly how I wanted or else describe in alternate ways. Vale said she loved being able to hear my thoughts and getting to know me better through that. This experience is definitely a lot of up and down in everything.
BUt anyways, this is just the trip I need. I brought some reading homework, but so far I've been distracted by the incredible sunrise out the window.
My academic schedule so far is
Martes (tues): Literatura Argentina en UCA a 745-915
Seminario de Aprendizaje-Servicio 10-11:30
Gramatical 1:15-3:15
Tango 5-7
Miercoles (Wed): Lit Arg 745-1015
Lenguaje en accion 1-4
Oral 5:30-7:30
Afro Dance 8
Then on Mondays and Thursdays 3-5, I'll hopefully be working with Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo. Really exciting, but I dont wanna talk it up until it's confirmed..
Anyways, heartbreaking news from home.. pray for Tina's family.
And I need to catch up on
1. dance shows
2. Tango
3. Tigre
4. Cancha
5. San Telmo
but I don't have time right now...
ps. Astor is my favorite beyond favorite cat!! I love him.
Monday, March 19, 2012
5 de marzo
Sunday.
Tonight is so humid. I just took an ice-cold shower and already am steaming up again. But anyways, today was another great day! I woke up early and went all the way to Juramento to meet with Missy and to go to church with Stephen-- a friend who I know from Maine who lives in Argentina. We met his friends Paul and James and then walked over to Iglesia San Andreas. It was pretty great! I really liked the songs, the people, and the communion-- both the people and the sacrament... let's just say that Jesus tastes pretty good in Argentina. I didn't get much depth from the sermon, but I could understand the general topic. My blisters are my biggest problem at this point... which I guess means my life is pretty fantastic. After church and cafe, Missy left and I went to lunch with Stephen, Paul, and James (disciples?) to a Peruvian restaurant. It was chicken, sauce, salad, and fries.. so delicious! After that we went to China Town to look around. After a nice relaxing time with them, I went to Missy's house. Melissa and Annie were already there and the 4 of us tanned on the roof. Qe stayed quite a while and it was really nice just talking and relaxing. After that I walked the hour home.
Yesterday (4/3), I went to Recoleta with Clay, Missy and Jon. I had to talk to about 10 people for colectivo info and it was very confusing, but secretly kinda fun to practice. Once I finally got there and was waiting for them to come retrieve me, I helped a girl from South Korea with directions in Spanish.. pretty humorous. We walked through the plazas, checking out the ferias, and then went to the cemetery, where Evita is buried. After that we went to lunch to a place that was in my Top 10 guide book-- first time I haven't been able to finish all the food! So delicious and a good deal.
Tonight is so humid. I just took an ice-cold shower and already am steaming up again. But anyways, today was another great day! I woke up early and went all the way to Juramento to meet with Missy and to go to church with Stephen-- a friend who I know from Maine who lives in Argentina. We met his friends Paul and James and then walked over to Iglesia San Andreas. It was pretty great! I really liked the songs, the people, and the communion-- both the people and the sacrament... let's just say that Jesus tastes pretty good in Argentina. I didn't get much depth from the sermon, but I could understand the general topic. My blisters are my biggest problem at this point... which I guess means my life is pretty fantastic. After church and cafe, Missy left and I went to lunch with Stephen, Paul, and James (disciples?) to a Peruvian restaurant. It was chicken, sauce, salad, and fries.. so delicious! After that we went to China Town to look around. After a nice relaxing time with them, I went to Missy's house. Melissa and Annie were already there and the 4 of us tanned on the roof. Qe stayed quite a while and it was really nice just talking and relaxing. After that I walked the hour home.
Yesterday (4/3), I went to Recoleta with Clay, Missy and Jon. I had to talk to about 10 people for colectivo info and it was very confusing, but secretly kinda fun to practice. Once I finally got there and was waiting for them to come retrieve me, I helped a girl from South Korea with directions in Spanish.. pretty humorous. We walked through the plazas, checking out the ferias, and then went to the cemetery, where Evita is buried. After that we went to lunch to a place that was in my Top 10 guide book-- first time I haven't been able to finish all the food! So delicious and a good deal.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Monday Showers
I'm in the midst of una gran aventura... but I can't say whether or not I'm enjoying it exactly. Everything on my body, including my passport and pre-visa document I just got, is soaked. Mom, should've bought that poncho you showed me at LL Bean! The rain started as soon as I set off for home. But let me rewind. Today was the day of pointless travel. I got up this morning and took the bus for my first flacso class. This week is "shopping period" where we attend all the classes we're signed up for and decide whether we want to keep them or drop them. Which means a lot of the classes overlap and you've gotta decide whether to leave early or arrive late. So for this first class, I was going to leave after an hour to go to the Flacso tango class. But since I arrived 20 minutes late (don't take the colectivo in the morning, or else go EARLY), that didn't make much sense so I decided to wait in the Computer Lab, where I ran into some girls going to on-site orientation at IUNA. IUNA is the arts school and in order to take classes there you generally have to have a concrete background in whatever the subject is. However, they've also got a carrera en Folclore, with a few literature classes. So I decided to tag along and check out the school, which means we took the subte all the way back towards my house. The school has such a good vibe! Picture artsy people, without the snobby/fake/self-obsessed aka pretentious ego (cough cough zooey deschanel, you're cute but you don't fool me!)that often goes along with artists. Very fluid, relaxed, colorful and energetic-- which can describe a lot of Buenos Aires actually. After meeting some teachers there and listening/asking questions about the Movement classes, Roche (my director coordinator) told me that Folclore wouldn't present until 2:30 and pretty much I didn't need to wait. I could just get the info from him through email later. So we decided to go back to Flacso to catch the end of the Tango class. Another subte viaje. But when we walked into Flacso, our tango classmates were leaving. So then I went to lunch with them. Background info: I lost $200... So, in attempts to save money, I only bought 1 empanada ($6). And then as they all went back to take another class, I decided to head over to the immigration center to turn in my paper in order to get my Visa appointment. The rest of the flacsitos did this on Friday during the Scavenger Hunt, but of course, I skipped it. So anyways, I walked the 35 minutes from Flacso to Piedras. Not bad since it was pretty cool weather and I was wearing my walking shoes.
The actual time in the building took 5 minutes or less, and checking my guia T (the most useful thing I own here) for the 35 min route home, I stepped outside. You know that prank where someone walks through a door and a bucket of water pours onto their head? That's kinda what it was like. But I thought to myself, "I like walking in the rain, I'll try it." Plus, I was out of monedas for a colectivo and didn't want to pay for a taxi. By the 6th cuadra or so however, I was stressing "I need an umbrella, I need an umbrella!" A couple blocks later, I passed a little store on the side of the road and spotted a basket of umbrellas in the doorway. I asked frantically how much it costs and the man told me $25. I said "no, the cheapest" and he said "yeah. that is." I gave him $20, thanked him, and continued my walk as the rain increased. By this time my suede shoes were completely submerged. But at least my head and purse were no longer getting drenched... that is until the next block, when the ubrella (paraguas) ripped off the spokes. I debated turning around to yell at the guy and get my money back, but I wanted only to move forward. The bad decision to buy the umbrella was redeemed by my good decision to finally duck inside a cafe. Which is where I am now. After ringing out my hair and greeting the owner, I chose a table by a window and asked for the menu. He brought it over to me a long time ago but I couldn't decide. So eventually, he opens the freezer and pulls out an helado (icecream), offers it to me and says "maravilloso". How could I resist? It's like a Kondike, but sweeter, smoother, and not as cold. the icecream is dulce de leche surrounded by vainilla. I suddenly feel a lot better.
And now la lluvia parece mas tranquila, so I'm gonna try this again..
The actual time in the building took 5 minutes or less, and checking my guia T (the most useful thing I own here) for the 35 min route home, I stepped outside. You know that prank where someone walks through a door and a bucket of water pours onto their head? That's kinda what it was like. But I thought to myself, "I like walking in the rain, I'll try it." Plus, I was out of monedas for a colectivo and didn't want to pay for a taxi. By the 6th cuadra or so however, I was stressing "I need an umbrella, I need an umbrella!" A couple blocks later, I passed a little store on the side of the road and spotted a basket of umbrellas in the doorway. I asked frantically how much it costs and the man told me $25. I said "no, the cheapest" and he said "yeah. that is." I gave him $20, thanked him, and continued my walk as the rain increased. By this time my suede shoes were completely submerged. But at least my head and purse were no longer getting drenched... that is until the next block, when the ubrella (paraguas) ripped off the spokes. I debated turning around to yell at the guy and get my money back, but I wanted only to move forward. The bad decision to buy the umbrella was redeemed by my good decision to finally duck inside a cafe. Which is where I am now. After ringing out my hair and greeting the owner, I chose a table by a window and asked for the menu. He brought it over to me a long time ago but I couldn't decide. So eventually, he opens the freezer and pulls out an helado (icecream), offers it to me and says "maravilloso". How could I resist? It's like a Kondike, but sweeter, smoother, and not as cold. the icecream is dulce de leche surrounded by vainilla. I suddenly feel a lot better.
And now la lluvia parece mas tranquila, so I'm gonna try this again..
Friday, March 2, 2012
Blisters, Tango, Puppy, and Playing Hookey
Yesterday was a crazy day. First of all, the subte was on strike. I talked to Vale and Marcelo about it the night before and they explained how the subte used to be run by the national government and so there used to be police, switched to the city government because it only runs in Bs As, and how now they would like police back. The question is pretty much, who’s budget? So anyways, the subte was not running, which means all~3 million Portenos needed to take the colectivo, drive, go in taxi, or walk. It was also raining. Needless to say, the streets were overcrowded. We FLACSitos had the task of completing the 1st step to get our student visas. Alyssa and I met up to photocopy each page of our passports and then we headed to our bus stop after asking at ever cuadro where to find it. We waiting around 45 minutes, 6 busses passed, but all of them were too full to fit anyone more. We tried to squish onto the step of the last door on the bus and hold onto the doorhandles, but there were even too many people doing that and we would’ve fallen off. So. We had to walk…. Which equaled a lot of blisters. Looking down, I can count 5 on each foot . Anyways, it didn’t matter that we were late for our assigned time because the whole city was late. Anyone who didn’t walk took about 30 minutes to go 2 blocks.
After Visa stuff (where the workers loved to say my name.. “char-eel? Line? Leen?”), we headed over to UCA (la Universidad catolica de argentina), which is near San Telmo. More walking.. but by that time the rain had stopped and it was another gorgeous day. At UCA, we listened to a presentation explaining about the university. UCA is pretty similar to private universities in the US it seems. Very impressive accommodations, a lot of staff dedicated to international students, social clubs and activities. The closest to a campus life Argentina gets. We had the opportunity to talk with some professors about different classes and subjects which was helpful, but I still have no clue what classes I’m gonna end up with. Right now I’m pre-registered for philosophy at UBA (the public university that is the most prestigious and a little terrifying!) and 2 literatures at UCA. I’m still holding out for IUNA though. The rest of my classes will be at FLACSO. Since I placed in Advanced Spanish II, I need at least 15 credits and 5 classes. Of those, 4 have to be language courses (2 cred each) and 1 class needs to be Direct Enrollment (UBA, UCA, or IUNA).
Anyways, after we were done with that, we walked back to FLACSO. Clay lead my group past the monument so I could get a closer peek, and we saw some marches—some in favor of the new congress, others not. It’s pretty hard to tell which is which a lot of the time and to understand what each side wants, but I’m starting to understand Spanish better, which means I can ask Vale more questions about the politics. She’s been really good about that, giving me her opinion, saying she believes something completely, but that everyone has different views so she encourages me to ask others who think differently as well. It was a long day at FLACSO, but after pre-registering for UCA, I went to lunch (~3pm) with a group. While we were eating and chatting there was another parade of horses and soldiers outside the window. Oh and now I know what not to order: migas. A miga is a type of sandwich here… and for the grand majority, EVERY food is so good! Especially the sandwiches. But picture what your mom might’ve packed you for lunch in 3rd grade and you’ve got it..white bread without crusts cut into a square with a cold cut of ham and cheese. The jugo de pomelo (grapefruit juice) I got was just delicious though, which made up for my disappointment. After eating we had a few minutes before the workshop about the volunteering class (aprendizaje y servicio), which is the most popular FLACSO course offered because it gives the opportunity to get involved in the community. Theres about 10 different organizations that, outside of class, you are matched with to work alongside for about 4-6 hours a week. If I get into the class I most definitely want to work with las madres de la plaza. But anyways, before that, Clay Annie Katya and I went to La plaza de congreso and hung out for a while. A young guy made his friends take a picture of him and me haha. Then after the workshop, Alyssa and I rushed home as quick as we could, taking the colectivo for about 20 minutes. It was just enough time for me to change my shoes and scarf some leftovers from the fridge before leaving again, by way of another colectivo, for the optional FLACSO activity at a tango milongra. This was such a fun time!! Our huge group walked into this dimly lit dance floor with the best dancers I’ve seen in real life. We all scavenged for seats on the outskirts of the floor so as to blend in as much as possible, but before I could sit down un Viejo (elderly man) grabbed my hand. I told him I didn’t know how to dance tango, that I learned it once when a tango group (Tami Tango) came to my school, but he said don’t worry, let’s go! I’m so glad he did, because that served as my ice breaker and it was really fun! After our dance, he moved onto another and another one of us, which was really kind of him considering the majority had never seen tango before. Soon the lights went out and there was a show with the 4 pairs of professional dancers. I took video almost the whole time because it was so amazing! After that the room divided into class for beginners and for advanced dancers. We all crowded around and learned (I re-learned) the basic step. We stayed there into the dim hours of the night, catching a dance once in a while but mostly just watching the Argentines who know how and I mean really know how! They’re so fluid and beautiful.
After that a few groups, energized by the great experience, decided to keep the night going. We spent most of the night on this beautiful terrace with candles. And later I made some new friends! One American mountaineer who decided to venture from Patagonia to Bs As after his friends went back to the states, and the others a group of portenos. Since the night was pretty and calm, we wanted to walk, and we ended up meeting that group. One of the guys gave me his card so that we could add him on facebook and one of the girls who I talked to for a while (and who told me I speak well!) put her number in my phone. She studies at UCA and told me to take classes with her. So fun! On the way home, a stray dog befriended me. He followed me about 2 hours until I got home, where I explained to him I had to go inside and that he should keep looking for food. He gave me puppy eyes for a long time and then he lay down outside my door to wait. He was great company, but not as loyal as he promised because this morning he was not still waiting. Anyways, I’m playing hookey from FLACSO right now because I didn’t want to travel. Although the activities today are more fun than mandatory.. but I think I’ve gotta go out later anyways to do something else with my VISA. Should probably figure that out.
After Visa stuff (where the workers loved to say my name.. “char-eel? Line? Leen?”), we headed over to UCA (la Universidad catolica de argentina), which is near San Telmo. More walking.. but by that time the rain had stopped and it was another gorgeous day. At UCA, we listened to a presentation explaining about the university. UCA is pretty similar to private universities in the US it seems. Very impressive accommodations, a lot of staff dedicated to international students, social clubs and activities. The closest to a campus life Argentina gets. We had the opportunity to talk with some professors about different classes and subjects which was helpful, but I still have no clue what classes I’m gonna end up with. Right now I’m pre-registered for philosophy at UBA (the public university that is the most prestigious and a little terrifying!) and 2 literatures at UCA. I’m still holding out for IUNA though. The rest of my classes will be at FLACSO. Since I placed in Advanced Spanish II, I need at least 15 credits and 5 classes. Of those, 4 have to be language courses (2 cred each) and 1 class needs to be Direct Enrollment (UBA, UCA, or IUNA).
Anyways, after we were done with that, we walked back to FLACSO. Clay lead my group past the monument so I could get a closer peek, and we saw some marches—some in favor of the new congress, others not. It’s pretty hard to tell which is which a lot of the time and to understand what each side wants, but I’m starting to understand Spanish better, which means I can ask Vale more questions about the politics. She’s been really good about that, giving me her opinion, saying she believes something completely, but that everyone has different views so she encourages me to ask others who think differently as well. It was a long day at FLACSO, but after pre-registering for UCA, I went to lunch (~3pm) with a group. While we were eating and chatting there was another parade of horses and soldiers outside the window. Oh and now I know what not to order: migas. A miga is a type of sandwich here… and for the grand majority, EVERY food is so good! Especially the sandwiches. But picture what your mom might’ve packed you for lunch in 3rd grade and you’ve got it..white bread without crusts cut into a square with a cold cut of ham and cheese. The jugo de pomelo (grapefruit juice) I got was just delicious though, which made up for my disappointment. After eating we had a few minutes before the workshop about the volunteering class (aprendizaje y servicio), which is the most popular FLACSO course offered because it gives the opportunity to get involved in the community. Theres about 10 different organizations that, outside of class, you are matched with to work alongside for about 4-6 hours a week. If I get into the class I most definitely want to work with las madres de la plaza. But anyways, before that, Clay Annie Katya and I went to La plaza de congreso and hung out for a while. A young guy made his friends take a picture of him and me haha. Then after the workshop, Alyssa and I rushed home as quick as we could, taking the colectivo for about 20 minutes. It was just enough time for me to change my shoes and scarf some leftovers from the fridge before leaving again, by way of another colectivo, for the optional FLACSO activity at a tango milongra. This was such a fun time!! Our huge group walked into this dimly lit dance floor with the best dancers I’ve seen in real life. We all scavenged for seats on the outskirts of the floor so as to blend in as much as possible, but before I could sit down un Viejo (elderly man) grabbed my hand. I told him I didn’t know how to dance tango, that I learned it once when a tango group (Tami Tango) came to my school, but he said don’t worry, let’s go! I’m so glad he did, because that served as my ice breaker and it was really fun! After our dance, he moved onto another and another one of us, which was really kind of him considering the majority had never seen tango before. Soon the lights went out and there was a show with the 4 pairs of professional dancers. I took video almost the whole time because it was so amazing! After that the room divided into class for beginners and for advanced dancers. We all crowded around and learned (I re-learned) the basic step. We stayed there into the dim hours of the night, catching a dance once in a while but mostly just watching the Argentines who know how and I mean really know how! They’re so fluid and beautiful.
After that a few groups, energized by the great experience, decided to keep the night going. We spent most of the night on this beautiful terrace with candles. And later I made some new friends! One American mountaineer who decided to venture from Patagonia to Bs As after his friends went back to the states, and the others a group of portenos. Since the night was pretty and calm, we wanted to walk, and we ended up meeting that group. One of the guys gave me his card so that we could add him on facebook and one of the girls who I talked to for a while (and who told me I speak well!) put her number in my phone. She studies at UCA and told me to take classes with her. So fun! On the way home, a stray dog befriended me. He followed me about 2 hours until I got home, where I explained to him I had to go inside and that he should keep looking for food. He gave me puppy eyes for a long time and then he lay down outside my door to wait. He was great company, but not as loyal as he promised because this morning he was not still waiting. Anyways, I’m playing hookey from FLACSO right now because I didn’t want to travel. Although the activities today are more fun than mandatory.. but I think I’ve gotta go out later anyways to do something else with my VISA. Should probably figure that out.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
San Telmo
Today was a free day! I didn’t do much for a while, but I got to skype with 3 people and chatted with a bunch of others so that was good. Also, I went to San Telmo with Ben, Missy, Annie, Melissa, and Addie and we met up with Megan and Rachael for a while too. San Telmo is very pretty! In the main square there’s a bunch of street vendors, which makes it a bit touristy, but still fun. We saw a tango performance in that square too. Then Ben Annie Missy and I ate pizza and drank Mascato.. so delicious!
On the way back, we went to Abasto which has a huge shopping mall. I bought my phone, but I think they ripped me off because 1. it says on the receipt that it cost $160 and I definitely paid $200. Also, I have $20 of credit on there, but can’t make/receive calls or messages. Tomorrow I have to go back and explain to them what happened and try to get them to fix it. Vale said to take someone from FLACSO with me and if not, to tell her and she’ll go with me. It’s raining pretty hard right now… Earlier I was so hot I put my swimsuit on and went up on the terrace to do some yoga in the rain.. it was so refreshing! (But it sounds so cheesy, I know.)
Well, I’m off to bed! Gotta be at FLACSO sometime in the morning (I should probably check that.)
On the way back, we went to Abasto which has a huge shopping mall. I bought my phone, but I think they ripped me off because 1. it says on the receipt that it cost $160 and I definitely paid $200. Also, I have $20 of credit on there, but can’t make/receive calls or messages. Tomorrow I have to go back and explain to them what happened and try to get them to fix it. Vale said to take someone from FLACSO with me and if not, to tell her and she’ll go with me. It’s raining pretty hard right now… Earlier I was so hot I put my swimsuit on and went up on the terrace to do some yoga in the rain.. it was so refreshing! (But it sounds so cheesy, I know.)
Well, I’m off to bed! Gotta be at FLACSO sometime in the morning (I should probably check that.)
... continued
(2/27)
Right now I’m writing this in my notebook upstairs on la terraza while Vale does some planting and chores.
She put up the umbrella for me because soy “tan blanca y el sol es tan fuerte”. Proteccion del sol is the first thing on my shopping list, so that I can soak up as much sun as posible.
Last night, we all (some of the 80+ FLACSO students) frantically planned (by way of the facebook group I made before leaving) where to meet for our first night out. It was also Missy’s birthday! Public transportation is very well-run in Bs As but the problem is it’s a holiday weekend. Entonces. I don’t have monedas (coins) for the bus and can’t buy una tarjeta de viaje until Tuesday. I planned on taking the subte to meet 3 people at FLACSO until I realized that it had closed at 10:30. I rushed back to my computer and Jake was still on so I told him I was gonna walk (~30mins). It was raining so I had to wear a coat with my hood up. I reassured myself it was safe and not to worry myself. However, when I opened the door, all I could see in the dark was the hand of a man gripping the building wall. I immediately closed the door as fast as I could, waiting a second, and reopened it with the key. The hand was gone. The man was not, but he was sitting on the step and it was a lot less alarming. I walked past with my best impression of a city girl who don’t give a mierda. The whole walk I kept my gaze straight and my ears open, paying attention to everthing—every noise, shadow, dog poop puddle—everything but the street signs apparently. The walk was straight forward: follow Av. Jujuy until it becomes Puerrymedon and eventually crosses w Av. Corrientes. When I finally looked at my watch, I realized I’d been walking for an hour! I looked at my handy guia T and saw that I was way past my spot! By that time I could’ve walked to Palermo but I knew that Missy Taylor and jake were waiting. And I’m so glad they were! Jake lead us to the right colectivo and Missy covered my moneda fee.
Mas tarde… Marcelo came over with the boy he’s hosting, Clay, in the middle of the day.
Clay and I talked a bunch (him in Spanish, me in espanglish) and then decided to go to the pharmacy to buy sunscreen. I also got shampoo and soap. What should have taken 5 minutes took me about half an hour because there are so many choices… but we walked around the neighborhood for a while before returning en casa to eat birthday lunch! We invited Alyssa over too, so the 5 of us ate while Astor kept trying to steal some or at least grab our attention by knocking over the books off the shelf. Marcelo took care of that by shutting him in el bano, while Vale returned Astor’s cries with her own “pobrecito.. es chiquito!” After, they sang happy birthday to me and we ate the cake. It was an orange cake with lemon icing.. so yummy!
After that we changed for el partido de futbol! My first soccer game in Argentina! The game started at 7 and we each wore a club shirt.
Velez played and Velez gano! It was so fun. But it made me want to be native Argentine so bad! I felt like a poser, but found myself joining in the songs that they yell throughout the game. One of my favorite experiences so far. At night I wandered around our barrio for a while, bought a grapefruit juice (jugo de pomelo) and drank it with a straw while scoping out the places and the people.
Right now I’m writing this in my notebook upstairs on la terraza while Vale does some planting and chores.
Last night, we all (some of the 80+ FLACSO students) frantically planned (by way of the facebook group I made before leaving) where to meet for our first night out. It was also Missy’s birthday! Public transportation is very well-run in Bs As but the problem is it’s a holiday weekend. Entonces. I don’t have monedas (coins) for the bus and can’t buy una tarjeta de viaje until Tuesday. I planned on taking the subte to meet 3 people at FLACSO until I realized that it had closed at 10:30. I rushed back to my computer and Jake was still on so I told him I was gonna walk (~30mins). It was raining so I had to wear a coat with my hood up. I reassured myself it was safe and not to worry myself. However, when I opened the door, all I could see in the dark was the hand of a man gripping the building wall. I immediately closed the door as fast as I could, waiting a second, and reopened it with the key. The hand was gone. The man was not, but he was sitting on the step and it was a lot less alarming. I walked past with my best impression of a city girl who don’t give a mierda. The whole walk I kept my gaze straight and my ears open, paying attention to everthing—every noise, shadow, dog poop puddle—everything but the street signs apparently. The walk was straight forward: follow Av. Jujuy until it becomes Puerrymedon and eventually crosses w Av. Corrientes. When I finally looked at my watch, I realized I’d been walking for an hour! I looked at my handy guia T and saw that I was way past my spot! By that time I could’ve walked to Palermo but I knew that Missy Taylor and jake were waiting. And I’m so glad they were! Jake lead us to the right colectivo and Missy covered my moneda fee.
Mas tarde… Marcelo came over with the boy he’s hosting, Clay, in the middle of the day.
Clay and I talked a bunch (him in Spanish, me in espanglish) and then decided to go to the pharmacy to buy sunscreen. I also got shampoo and soap. What should have taken 5 minutes took me about half an hour because there are so many choices… but we walked around the neighborhood for a while before returning en casa to eat birthday lunch! We invited Alyssa over too, so the 5 of us ate while Astor kept trying to steal some or at least grab our attention by knocking over the books off the shelf. Marcelo took care of that by shutting him in el bano, while Vale returned Astor’s cries with her own “pobrecito.. es chiquito!” After, they sang happy birthday to me and we ate the cake. It was an orange cake with lemon icing.. so yummy!
Velez played and Velez gano! It was so fun. But it made me want to be native Argentine so bad! I felt like a poser, but found myself joining in the songs that they yell throughout the game. One of my favorite experiences so far. At night I wandered around our barrio for a while, bought a grapefruit juice (jugo de pomelo) and drank it with a straw while scoping out the places and the people.
Monday, February 27, 2012
la gringa, la yankee
-"Since there are so many portenos with light skin like me, can you tell the difference?"
-"Oh yes, very easily. Because you have 'gringa' stamped on your forehead."
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Today I botched my examen oral. First of all, I was late (I blame Vale for that since the two of us hung out all morning muy tranquilada). I didn't think it would matter-- FLACSO told us to accustom ourselves to el tiempo latinoamericano, but apparently that means be patient for others, on time yourself. Anyways, my exam proctor was not amused. I was a little flustered when she didn't return my light humor with any friendly facial expression. But I had no time as we got right down to business.. which consisted of her asking me some simple questios about my expectivas de las clases gramaticas de Flacso, and me looking like a stunned bunny, but a little less cute. Not because I couldn't understand or couldn't speak in Spanish, but because I honestly don't have many specifics in mind. I tried explaining that I want to improve, by whatever means they think work best. When she wrote down my "no se" in the response box next to my name, that's when I lost all trail of could-be thoughts in my brain. I ended up mumble-jumbling in some new language (a mix between Espanglish and gato) that I want to learn the vos form and that I don't want to do grammar worksheets because in the States I get As but I'm not an A student in Spanish. All she said to that was to correct my "AY" to "AH". I'm just hoping that this way I'll get a lighter studyload so I have more time to wander the city during the semester, but it may mean that I've gotta work extra hard and take more classes to catch up or that I waste a semester taking all language classes that won't transfer for credit. Anyways, after that we had a workshop on safey tips then split up into our groups for una guia caminando. The tour guide was awesome and interesting but I couldn't hold my attention to her because it was mid afternoon and sunny. We went to Puerto Madero and among other sites, saw La Casa Rosada y La Plaza de Mayo.
After the guide finished, we were told that we were "libres" to do whatever we wanted. We all kinda stood there like "uh...how do we get back?" since we initially took the subte to the last stop somwhere befor beginning the tour. It actually was really fun getting back! We first stopped at a cart and some people got food, some got beer, and one(me) got both from their leftovers. After that, We each tried to find our respective subte lineas y estacciones. Alyssa and I had a great adventure finding our way back to our neighborhood. At one point we charged off the subte at the last second, tossing "chau chau!" over our shoulders to our small friend group who had no idea what we were doing. And apparently neither did we, as we realized that WAS the one we wanted as it sped away. On the next subte, I struck up a convo about how "es siempre verano el el subte" con una viaja (a woman was fanning herself from the subte heat). But that leads me to one of my favorite things about Bs As so far-- very similar to Portland Maine it seems, but I think more pronounced-- strangers mind their own business. They have their own things to do, places to go, people to meet. but in many you can sense the curiosity in their eyes, even in the ones who dont openly stare at us gringos. And if you make the least attempt to address anyone in spanish, they light up like the sun. I love everyone I've met here, including the few strangers like my neighbor on the plane. So far no one's been direct enough to come out of nowhere and say something (not including the barachos y "chicos feos" as Vale calls the men on the street who call out), but they are very open. Another example: I took my taxi alone last night from Palermo (~42 pesos in case you were wondering) and the driver didn't say much. Not until I rolled down my window and commented typically how nice the weather was. He agreed with me, and 10 minutes later, we were in the middle of a good conversation all about my studying here. He confessed he was surprised I could understand so much! It's small talk I guess, but it feels different. They've been super patient and wicked gracious so far when I tell them I can't understand. They haven't shown any frustration. They simply repeat it slower or find a different way to describe it.
In the morning, Vale took me on her own walking tour around el barrio, showing me the stores she likes, the ones she doesnt, the 24 hr guarded ATM, etc. to orient me. Te hospitality is so striking because it's not at all nervous or silly or spastic, if that makes any sense. To me, it seems like the portrayal of hospitality is subservient and a little hyper. But it's not that way here. The people are confident and calm, and they transfer those ondas (vibes) to their guests.
... to be continued
-"Oh yes, very easily. Because you have 'gringa' stamped on your forehead."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Today I botched my examen oral. First of all, I was late (I blame Vale for that since the two of us hung out all morning muy tranquilada). I didn't think it would matter-- FLACSO told us to accustom ourselves to el tiempo latinoamericano, but apparently that means be patient for others, on time yourself. Anyways, my exam proctor was not amused. I was a little flustered when she didn't return my light humor with any friendly facial expression. But I had no time as we got right down to business.. which consisted of her asking me some simple questios about my expectivas de las clases gramaticas de Flacso, and me looking like a stunned bunny, but a little less cute. Not because I couldn't understand or couldn't speak in Spanish, but because I honestly don't have many specifics in mind. I tried explaining that I want to improve, by whatever means they think work best. When she wrote down my "no se" in the response box next to my name, that's when I lost all trail of could-be thoughts in my brain. I ended up mumble-jumbling in some new language (a mix between Espanglish and gato) that I want to learn the vos form and that I don't want to do grammar worksheets because in the States I get As but I'm not an A student in Spanish. All she said to that was to correct my "AY" to "AH". I'm just hoping that this way I'll get a lighter studyload so I have more time to wander the city during the semester, but it may mean that I've gotta work extra hard and take more classes to catch up or that I waste a semester taking all language classes that won't transfer for credit. Anyways, after that we had a workshop on safey tips then split up into our groups for una guia caminando. The tour guide was awesome and interesting but I couldn't hold my attention to her because it was mid afternoon and sunny. We went to Puerto Madero and among other sites, saw La Casa Rosada y La Plaza de Mayo.
After the guide finished, we were told that we were "libres" to do whatever we wanted. We all kinda stood there like "uh...how do we get back?" since we initially took the subte to the last stop somwhere befor beginning the tour. It actually was really fun getting back! We first stopped at a cart and some people got food, some got beer, and one(me) got both from their leftovers. After that, We each tried to find our respective subte lineas y estacciones. Alyssa and I had a great adventure finding our way back to our neighborhood. At one point we charged off the subte at the last second, tossing "chau chau!" over our shoulders to our small friend group who had no idea what we were doing. And apparently neither did we, as we realized that WAS the one we wanted as it sped away. On the next subte, I struck up a convo about how "es siempre verano el el subte" con una viaja (a woman was fanning herself from the subte heat). But that leads me to one of my favorite things about Bs As so far-- very similar to Portland Maine it seems, but I think more pronounced-- strangers mind their own business. They have their own things to do, places to go, people to meet. but in many you can sense the curiosity in their eyes, even in the ones who dont openly stare at us gringos. And if you make the least attempt to address anyone in spanish, they light up like the sun. I love everyone I've met here, including the few strangers like my neighbor on the plane. So far no one's been direct enough to come out of nowhere and say something (not including the barachos y "chicos feos" as Vale calls the men on the street who call out), but they are very open. Another example: I took my taxi alone last night from Palermo (~42 pesos in case you were wondering) and the driver didn't say much. Not until I rolled down my window and commented typically how nice the weather was. He agreed with me, and 10 minutes later, we were in the middle of a good conversation all about my studying here. He confessed he was surprised I could understand so much! It's small talk I guess, but it feels different. They've been super patient and wicked gracious so far when I tell them I can't understand. They haven't shown any frustration. They simply repeat it slower or find a different way to describe it.
In the morning, Vale took me on her own walking tour around el barrio, showing me the stores she likes, the ones she doesnt, the 24 hr guarded ATM, etc. to orient me. Te hospitality is so striking because it's not at all nervous or silly or spastic, if that makes any sense. To me, it seems like the portrayal of hospitality is subservient and a little hyper. But it's not that way here. The people are confident and calm, and they transfer those ondas (vibes) to their guests.
... to be continued
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